Flinders Ranges to Coober Pedy

June 21st
Brian and Di loved Arkaroola so much, they decided they would stay on for an extra day to do their own thing and will catch up with us later.  After breakfast we drove out to the Arkaroola Water Hole which allowed time for the dew to dry off the canvas before we packed up.  Very pretty spot with towering cliffs of red rock and home to the Yellow Footed Rock Wallaby (which must be very sure footed as well, because it is so rugged).  A lot of water has obviously come rushing down these gorges at some time. 

Debris at Arkaroola Gorge

Arkaroola Waterhole - unedited

Then back to pack up camp and drive on to Copley because we were told that their pies were famous.  Everyone seems to have famous pies around here.  Not that we mind giving them all the taste test.  Bit of a set back on this section of road, the Giles' had their first flat, so a new tyre was also purchased in Copley.  Then to Leigh Creek, (Copley and Leigh Creek about 4 km apart, however, Leigh Creek is the far bigger centre) to restock the fridges and pantry before we drove north to bush camp at Farina Ruins.

Flying the drone at Farina Ruins

June 22nd
Walked the Farina township ruins.  Established in 1878, it was obviously once a large, bustling community.  A lot of restoration work is being done by volunteers, some of whom we met back in Hawker, so it was interesting to see what they had been doing.  Continued our drive travelling along beside the Old Ghan railway track.  Stopped at Marree where there was a fairly chilly breeze blowing and although not particularly inviting thought we would get ourselves a coffee at the Oasis Café.  We were laughing at the name.  Then we discovered you had to step inside what appeared to be a dilapidated and run-down old shed with a bowser at the front, to experience the oasis.  The smell of the fresh baked bread was amazing!!  From Marree we were on the Oodnadatta Track.  Stopped in at Lake Eyre (south) and Plane Henge where there is a selection of strange and unusual sculptures on the side of the road.

Lake Eyre

A Sculpture at Plane Henge

A Sculpture at Plane Henge

The Oodnadatta track is a series of dips, floodways and creek beds with lots of flat treeless plain in between.  There are so many dips and it does get a little crazy which has resulted in  a few being renamed.  'Dip shit', 'Deep Dip', 'Another Dip, and 'Dip and Cheese'.  We thought we should name one 'Dip and Biccies'.  It has rained here recently so sections of the road are cut up with deep tyre ruts.  Also stopped in at Mound Springs (artesian springs called 'The Bubbler' and 'Blanche Cup') and to put the Old Ghan in a bag.  (Collecting and chopping up railway sleepers for fire wood). 

Artesian spring

 

Putting the Ghan in a bag

Set up camp early at Coward Springs and had a spa in the artesian water before hosing off under the KK shower. 

Coward Springs

We had a short walk before dinner to look at the Old Ghan railway siding which has been restored and set up as a small museum.  Experienced our first flies today (just a couple)!

Sunset at Coward Srpings

 



Camp at Coward Springs

June 23rd
On to William Creek collecting more of the Ghan for firewood along the way. 

More fire wood

Pulled up outside the William Creek Hotel to discover the Giles' had another flat tyre.  Bugger!!

Tyre changing at William Creek, (who is the supervisor?)

Interesting outdoor museum with bits and pieces from the Woomera Rocket Firing Range.  The French back-packer did a tyre repair while we had a coffee at the Hotel.  Peoples business cards and scrawl decorate the walls of this 'character' building.  Mike added his card to the collection.  Lots and lots of flies!!  Then we left the Oodnadatta track and headed for Coober Pedy. 

The worst section of road between William Creek & Coober Pedy

The tyre repair didn't hold so we took the opportunity to have a lunch stop and did some more tyre changing on the side of the road.  Rolled into Coober Pedy about mid afternoon.  What a strange and fascinating place!  Set up camp and did laundry before taking an evening walk down the main street and eating at the highly recommended 'John's Pizzas'.

Whatever you do, don't step off the track!

June 24th
Off to the tyre shop first thing today for a 'newy'!  Coopers have been given the flick and Maxxis are in favour.  Then we did as much as we could in Coober Pedy.  Went to the Opal Cave, had a coffee at the underground Crystal Café (where we sat next to a couple from Waroona), checked out the bakery, did a tour of an underground residence, went in and out of as many for the Opal stores that we could manage (but did not get to all 25 of them), visited Umoona Mine, Old Timers Mine and ended the day with a huge sugar overload, underground, at the Dug Out Café.  The landscape here is dry, desolate and dug up, (large and small mounds of dirt as far as you can see) with so much scrap metal left laying around town it looks like a junk yard.  Then underground a whole different world exists.  They had three 53 degree days in a row this last summer.  Amazing.


Above ground

 

Below ground